Shapeoko 2: Polyurethane Woes & The Nautilus PC Project

A pair of projects I took on this past weekend, milling materials I should never have tried machining… Also, a quick preview of my 3D milling test: A relie…

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    19 Responses to “Shapeoko 2: Polyurethane Woes & The Nautilus PC Project”

    • Winston Moy:

      Two projects for friends: Polyurethane Bumpers and ‘The Nautilus PC’. My
      #Shapeoko #CNC Adventure continues…

    • afca jamiro:

      Nice! One day you will be discoverd and be the greatest of them all

    • Saul Goodman:

      What is the depth per pass on the plywood and I use cambam and in my
      opinion is the best for the price

    • James G.:

      When you’re cutting wood(or any material for that matter) try not to punch
      all the way through like you did at the end, if that was aluminum, it
      would’ve shattered the bit and sent shards flying. No bueno
      Just leave about .005″ remaining at the bottom, punch it out and smoot it
      out :)

    • Stephen Bell:

      I’m not sure if you’ve seen it, but Makercam has a “tabs” option that can
      help hold things in place until you’ve finished. The tab size doesn’t
      compensate for drill diameter (even in profile mode), so don’t try to use a
      1/4″ tab with a 1/4″ drill bit like I did, or you’ll end up with messy
      edges and no actual tabs.

      Meshcam looks fun. I’m not very excited about paying $200+ dollars for
      software, but it might be the best option for my mac. For 3D work, PyCam
      looks like it works reasonably well in Windows, but I couldn’t get it
      installed in OS X no matter what I tried.

    • Jeffrey Harris:

      Dude this video is awesome man. thanks for making it.

    • Jeffrey Harris:

      Also it would be great if you mentioned the amount of time it took to
      actually mill the nautilus. I’m curious if its 1 hour or all day? :)

    • blitz355:

      I like your no nonsense videos. Straight to the point, and everything you
      mention is a valid informative thought or statement.

      For plastics I’ve found that a high IPM works best. It keeps the tool from
      heating up the plastic around it because the tool is moving to new material

    • Neal Wallace:

      I’ve been really enjoying your videos and I’ve found them all useful since
      my Shapeoko 2 showed up a few weeks ago. I’m brand new to CNC routing and
      I’m conditioning myself to see the Shapeoko as one tool in the box.
      Consider making a simple mold with the CNC and then casting the part out of
      polyurethane ( has great tutorials).
      Please keep up your high-quality videos! I’m interested in seeing what you
      make as time passes.

    • inventables:

      Hey Winston, great video. Your Shapeoko 2 looks great. I’m very excited
      to get your feedback on Easel when we open it up for beta testers. The tab
      feature on MakerCAM will make it so your part doesn’t fly away and you
      don’t need a “chicken stick”. Your video was very clear and well done.

    • Long Huynh:

      Good job man like your videos very interesting. 

    • sidewayssimon:

      To machine the softer material, you may like to try sandwiching it between
      2 layers of harder materials. This will help “stabilize” the softer
      material, by restricting it’s movement. We use this technique at work when
      machining 0,1mm (4 thou) shim steel. We cut multiple squares of the shim
      steel, then sandwich them between ally plates. This effectively makes the
      shim steel 1 peice, several mm thick, and stops it tearing and moving. Good

    • illusionistpro:

      love your videos, big thumbs up. i’m very interested in building a
      shapeoko with a trim router to take advantage of 1/4 bits. just waiting
      until I have some good space to put it. please keep the videos coming!

    • MrLostMD:

      ….aaaand subscribed. I built my own router table with vslot extrusions
      and I and have become vary amateur in the 2d milling arena over the last
      few weeks since finishing.

    • Scott Baker:

      You should mill out some knobs to epoxy onto those bolts – or
      alternatively, soda bottle caps work really well. 

    • Matthew Hagan:

      If you need a soft polymer part. the easiest way is to machine a mold and
      cast it from resin.

    • Andrew Goodin:

      What is that vacuum you are using for the dust collection? Do you happen
      to have a video explaining it? Is it crazy for me to think that I can
      operate a Shapeoko 2 on a table over carpet?

    • Matthew Barnard:

      Why not add a vacuum to the Shapeoko so you don’t have to keep cleaning it

    • Don Magers:

      If you aren’t going to mold the urethane into the complex shape, it might
      be easier to make a die into your shape and then press it through the .5
      inch slab, like a cookie cutter. Any deformation is along the vertical
      plane and probably wouldn’t require any sanding and surely won’t melt. 

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