Finishing a wooden countertop by Jon Peters

http://www.jonpeters.com/ a wooden countertop by Jon Peters.


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    25 Responses to “Finishing a wooden countertop by Jon Peters”

    • Alexandre Hemeryckx:

      NEVER Use POLY .. or other Chemically compose Polymer to seal anything
      where food can come in contact, But Awesome Woodwork, BUT The only note
      that i would have for you, is that Poly.. is not a great choice for a
      wooden counter top, after being fry, particle of Poly can be very armful if
      it come in contact with food product, there is a replacement in your local
      Lowes or Home depot, same sealant technique but it is specially made for
      wooden counter top, butcher block, salad bowl , etc.. I hope that this help
      you. I understand that most adult will say well i will not lay a fruit or
      sandwich on my counter top and this will be a done deal, i agree, but what
      if a child come near and place his fruit on the Poly counter top, and the
      same day you will be running to the hospital because a chip or wood or
      particle was indulge by the child? Just be safe that s all. 

    • dirosaga a:

      you sound like Harvey Keitel

    • Dave Tan:

      Hi John, How do you finish a countertop MDF board that is laminated with a
      Wood Veneer? Im desperate to know this.. thanks

    • twostorms:

      What would be the best under coat and top coat to put on a finish to keep
      our babies from becoming sick or dead? Because a kitchen countertop needs
      food grade finishes when they are in the kitchen. I understand the whole no
      chopping on wood surfaces rule, and full agree that if a person wants to
      chop up things than use a butchers block. Thank you and very nice video.
      Peace, Ken:)

    • cranky1964:

      come on Peter, Urethane doesn’t smell
      *that* much.

    • WILSON!:

      You really did a beautiful job. I’ve been contemplating choices for a wood
      countertop for a built in cabinet that I built for a dining room, and it’s
      proven to be a very tough thing to decide on. Do you ever route more
      detailed profiles around your countertop perimeters?

    • fractal_force:

      nice

    • Mustafa Mustika:

      perfect!
      what is your wood oil ? or another favourite wood colouring ?

    • Ca Nadian thepride:

      Hello! You have beautiful videos informative.

      I have some speakers with a plastic coating with wood pattern + a clear
      plastic coating applied to the first plastic (wood pattern). Speakers made
      of other thing than wood (I don’t know how to explain but You saw a speaker
      box so … )

      I want to remove 2 of the plastic enclosure. I want to dye the speaker. I
      want to put a lacquer like a piano. The proceed about the lacquer I don’t
      know.

      Have you ever work with piano lacquer please? If yes please how should I
      proceed?

      I used Google translate because I speak french (Quebec Canada).

    • Jesse G:

      Great video. I love how people are still going crazy over “food safe”
      marketing bs. All finishes are food safe , read a book already! Once lead
      was removed as a drier all finishes became food safe , you are just being
      manipulated by someone who wants to sell you something ( many so called
      “food safe” finishes are just thinned out varnish! The others are just non
      curing oil offering NO protection what so ever! Oh and please someone tell
      me that we need to use oil to replace the natural oils in wood. Wood has
      water in it fools! Wake up.

    • Jesse G:

      Can nadian the pride. There is no such a product as piano lacquer. Normally
      it is just regular nitrocellulose lacquer buffed to a high sheen. I buff
      with wet /dry400 up to 4000gt using water or mineral spirits to lube and
      then use rubbing compounds. If you cannot get those you can use 2f/4f
      pummice and rottenstone but it is a little more messy in my opinion. If
      done by hand it looks better than with a buffer under raking light because
      you see a sort of ring effect. Don’t skip grits or sand through.

    • Kirt Richard:

      Nice video …
      The roller was an epiphany

    • HolyCowist:

      How long between each of the 3 coats did you wait?

    • Nicolas Fernandez:

      I want to do this on a guitar, this color, would it work the same?

    • George Gandrow:

      Beautiful!!!!! Deb…

    • Alvaro Soares, Jr.:

      Great stuff, +Jon Peters Art & Home Question: can I use the same technique
      when buying a butcher block countertop from a store like lumber
      liquidators? Also, can food and that finish mix? I’ve heard stories about
      how you shouldn’t finish wood countertops because they’re not food safe.
      Thanks!

    • IeatyellowSNO:

      Beautiful top. 

    • Jeff Schell:

      Isn’t Sepele an open pore wood that should be filled to prevent the finish
      from sinking?

    • Grant Peterson:

      Quick and easy to understand. Thanks!!

    • grindinglicks:

      It seems that no matter how careful I am, there’s always lint or fuzz or a
      hair that manages to get into my finishes. How can you eliminate that
      problem? Also, for this top, was this a gloss finished or satin?

    • TheMILOKLIZ:

      Best video on making solid top. How durable is this finish?

    • gonegolding:

      Great videos on how to do this Jon. Liked on both & subbed. One question,
      would finishing with Tung oil be suitable instead of using polyurethane?
      Thanks, Andrew

    • Gregory Brettin:

      You should try using an automotive microfiber towel to pick up the dust
      after you wipe the wood down with the paper towel. You will be surprised
      how much dust/wood particles you missed.

    • perogi21:

      I’ve heard that you don’t want to use steel wool if you use water based
      poly. Do you agree?

    • Myrryha Weiss:

      Yup this did help:) thanks :) does it mater what brand or type of stain (
      oil or water base )I use ? Would they be compatible with zinster. I’m
      hoping for a light walnut color. :) after the wool paste can I apply
      another coat of polyurethane after wipe down ? or is the wool paste final
      and no going back? :) thanks I’m sorry to grill you I just don’t want to
      make to many mistakes and the men that work at the wood craft store here in
      Colorado are not very friendly : / sadly 

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